Done it, a day early, but only just. It was after 9pm when I got here after by far the craziest day yet...
Set of early doors, like every day, with the intention of cramming the last two days in to one, as a massive part of it was downhill. However, Providence would play its part and I didn't make the first peak before the road was closed due to a rock slide. So back down I went and was told the only way around, was by train to Scoul-Terasp, where I then had to get a bus. The train journey was fantastic, you can open the windows to look out, but word of advice... Be careful of tunnels. I got a bit excited and nearly lost my head... Luckily I videoed the whole thing. Idiot.
The bus journey was horrendous. Loads of us crammed in, my bike hanging off the back. I just spent the whole trip looking at her, hoping she'd hang on. It lasted about an hour and a half and even nipped into Austria, then back out and dropped us all off at Malles or Mals, depending on the Swiss or Italian name.
It was now 2pm and I had 102km, (60 miles) to go, but like I said, it was mostly downhill... MY ARSE was it!!
The end location was lower than the start, but it undulated the whole way, valley after valley, to the point that I nearly just got the tent out. Then I got an e-mail from Caterina saying, "Enjoy these last few miles of your amazing journey". And she was right, it was the last bit, look at what I'd already done, this was nothing. So in the pitch dark, going up hills I couldn't see the tops of and coming down windy roads I could hardly see the edges of, I ploughed on. Rode into Pergine, up Marconi street and was trying to find the house numbers when I saw two figures waving, Caterina and her sister, waiting for me with a bottle of water and a towel. The two things I needed most in the world... I had made it.
I've just had a lovely meal with the Daldoss girls. Cat, her Sister and her Mother and am ready for a couple of days chilling before the ride back... Yeah right! British Airways for me...
Its been emotional, I've had some very low moments, all of Day 3 and some great highs, the top of the Fluela Pass, (literally), but I am NEVER doing anything like that again... I'm glad I did it, but I'm glad its done.
Pazzo
Sunday, 25 September 2011
Saturday, 24 September 2011
Day Nine... On The Line
Fluela Pass baby!!! But more of that later...
This morning seems an age ago, the beautiful campsite, the lake, I really didn't want to go, but it is Stannah to Daldoss...
The ride started ok, some more lying down cows, (pic attached) and a hilarious moment at a farmers market with some cow on cow action, despite having bells the size of a small car around their necks and my now routine, Lidl Car Park Picnic.
I continued down the same Route 3 I had been on through most of Switzerland, then the 13, then if in a car, the 28, but there are tunnels, so no bicycles. This put me on Cycle Route 21, which for the most part was brilliant, then it went off road through some woods, then loose stone tracks, so steep I had to get off and push. At times I was doing 10 steps, then putting on the brakes and resting. It was horrendous and I had an hour and a half of this before I even got to a road again, then it was a race to Klosters and Davos to try and make up the time.
I got to Davos about 4.30 and would have liked a break, but the most I managed was to shove an energy gel down my neck, have a quick whizz behind some trees, then hit mountain...
I was going over the Fluela Pass, apparently it's very well known amongst cyclists as being quite a test, both going up it and coming down. I got into my state of knackerdness fairly quickly, having done 70+km already and a few thousand feet of hills, but nothing in my training prepared me for additional pressure of a huge drop to one side, with no barriers. There were times with cars whizzing past, that I was genuinely scared I might go over. So up and up I went, above the snow line, as the sun disappeared behind the mountain. This I liked, because it got much cooler. In fact sometimes when I stopped, I was actually cold. I would try to look ahead and see where the road went, but it just kept going up the mountain. At one of my rest and photo stops, I asked a motor cyclist, how far the top was, he said about another 3km. At the rate I was going, that was around 45 mins. (I saw my speedo at 4.4kmh, that's barely 3mph.
So with this in mind, I set off, fully intending to summit, without stopping again, but 3.5km later and still looking up at the road, I cracked. I couldn't do any more and almost stopped, but then I looked down at my crossbar... Last May I met Mark Beaumont, a real inspiration to me and a genuinely top bloke. He held the World Record for cycling round the world, (194 days), and I had asked him to sign my bike. I got him to write, "John, WWMD" (What Would Mark Do). It was for this exact moment and it worked. I just dug in and completed the last single km, getting to the top in 2 hours. I will admit now, I did have a little cry, the emotions just overwhelmed me and the sense of accomplishment at what I had done was massive. Then I filmed the occasion and rode on to the hotel at the summit...
Just as I arrived there, another cyclist did also. He had come up from the other side and was the first cyclist I'd seen, that also had panniers. His name was John, (Johns are cool), and he was cycling TO France. We had a laugh about the mirror bike rides, compared notes and swapped e-mail addresses. He has the only photo of me on this whole thing.
I then started my descent, about the same distance, 14km, but obviously muuuuch faster. I hit 61kph, (I saw afterward in my stats) and scared myself on more than one occasion. I had to stop to warm up too, as at one stage I was shivering so much I was wobbling the handlebars.
But I'm down now, in the Fluela Hotel, (seemed apt) and the amazing lady that runs it, made me some gulasch soup, even though the kitchen was shut. I'd been gagging for exactly that, so she is my new favourite person.
So, France done, Switzerland done, (practically), just one more wee mountain and it's Italy and Daldoss...
Bring it!
Lazy Cows
Stupid Tracks
If Carlsberg Did Lidl
Day 9 Route
This morning seems an age ago, the beautiful campsite, the lake, I really didn't want to go, but it is Stannah to Daldoss...
The ride started ok, some more lying down cows, (pic attached) and a hilarious moment at a farmers market with some cow on cow action, despite having bells the size of a small car around their necks and my now routine, Lidl Car Park Picnic.
I continued down the same Route 3 I had been on through most of Switzerland, then the 13, then if in a car, the 28, but there are tunnels, so no bicycles. This put me on Cycle Route 21, which for the most part was brilliant, then it went off road through some woods, then loose stone tracks, so steep I had to get off and push. At times I was doing 10 steps, then putting on the brakes and resting. It was horrendous and I had an hour and a half of this before I even got to a road again, then it was a race to Klosters and Davos to try and make up the time.
I got to Davos about 4.30 and would have liked a break, but the most I managed was to shove an energy gel down my neck, have a quick whizz behind some trees, then hit mountain...
I was going over the Fluela Pass, apparently it's very well known amongst cyclists as being quite a test, both going up it and coming down. I got into my state of knackerdness fairly quickly, having done 70+km already and a few thousand feet of hills, but nothing in my training prepared me for additional pressure of a huge drop to one side, with no barriers. There were times with cars whizzing past, that I was genuinely scared I might go over. So up and up I went, above the snow line, as the sun disappeared behind the mountain. This I liked, because it got much cooler. In fact sometimes when I stopped, I was actually cold. I would try to look ahead and see where the road went, but it just kept going up the mountain. At one of my rest and photo stops, I asked a motor cyclist, how far the top was, he said about another 3km. At the rate I was going, that was around 45 mins. (I saw my speedo at 4.4kmh, that's barely 3mph.
So with this in mind, I set off, fully intending to summit, without stopping again, but 3.5km later and still looking up at the road, I cracked. I couldn't do any more and almost stopped, but then I looked down at my crossbar... Last May I met Mark Beaumont, a real inspiration to me and a genuinely top bloke. He held the World Record for cycling round the world, (194 days), and I had asked him to sign my bike. I got him to write, "John, WWMD" (What Would Mark Do). It was for this exact moment and it worked. I just dug in and completed the last single km, getting to the top in 2 hours. I will admit now, I did have a little cry, the emotions just overwhelmed me and the sense of accomplishment at what I had done was massive. Then I filmed the occasion and rode on to the hotel at the summit...
Just as I arrived there, another cyclist did also. He had come up from the other side and was the first cyclist I'd seen, that also had panniers. His name was John, (Johns are cool), and he was cycling TO France. We had a laugh about the mirror bike rides, compared notes and swapped e-mail addresses. He has the only photo of me on this whole thing.
I then started my descent, about the same distance, 14km, but obviously muuuuch faster. I hit 61kph, (I saw afterward in my stats) and scared myself on more than one occasion. I had to stop to warm up too, as at one stage I was shivering so much I was wobbling the handlebars.
But I'm down now, in the Fluela Hotel, (seemed apt) and the amazing lady that runs it, made me some gulasch soup, even though the kitchen was shut. I'd been gagging for exactly that, so she is my new favourite person.
So, France done, Switzerland done, (practically), just one more wee mountain and it's Italy and Daldoss...
Bring it!
Lazy Cows
Stupid Tracks
If Carlsberg Did Lidl
Day 9 Route
Friday, 23 September 2011
Day Eight... What a Cheapskate
Brilliant day after an awful night. The rip off campsite in Zurich was full of "rad" snow boarders, that were there for a "totally awesome" freestyle competition and they didn't shut up all night. I couldn't leave quickly enough in the morning.
It was very overcast, which is great because its cool. (As in temperature, not snow boarder talk for "good"). The route pretty much followed Lake Zurich, so was almost completely flat, (I had only gone up 126ft in the first 31km). First stop of the day was at a Lidls. I bought some apple juice, fruit and meat, and sat in the car park scoffing it. Like a scantily clad tramp with an expensive bicycle, then cracked on.
The views just kept getting better and better, I felt like I was living in a postcard, although in the back of my mind, there was a voice saying, "You've got to go up that soon"...
"Soon" came at the afore mentioned 31km mark, lasted only another 6km, but went up 2412ft... very slowly. There were 9 hairpin bends, so it wasn't straight up thankfully, but I felt it when it was on the inside turn of the hairpins. It took me about an hour to get up, (not sure what the speed was), but I felt really good at the top. Much like my training, I find a level of knackeredness (that IS a word) and stay there, I don't get more tired, I just grind out the miles. So that bodes well for tomorrow. The mountain is 5 times higher, so I'll feel 5 times better...right?
Coming down was obviously even better, not pedalling for nearly half an hour. I did almost crash at one stage. I came through some trees into bright sunshine and the most amazing view of the lake. It LITERALLY took my breathe away, I was so awe struck I forgot to turn and almost went over the barrier and down the side. Luckily there were no cars either...
The campsite is ridiculous. I kept looking round and grinning, the view is stunning. I've attached the new screen saver on my phone and couldn't help send a wee video back to the office to gloat. If anyone is interested Google "See Camping, Welanstadt".
I've just had a BBQ on the beach, with a young couple who asked me to join them. Nadia and Michael. Nadia is staying here as she studies to be a Physiotherapist and Michael is doing his national service in the army. It is usually only 5 months, but he just became a lieutenant and has to do 20...haha, idiot. They were great though, (pic attached), and saved me walking into town to buy my own dinner... (Hence the Day Eight title).
Well, early night as I'm doing a Von Trapp tomorrow and legging it over a mountain.
Tchuss
World's Widest Cycle Path...All along Lake Zurich... Brilliant
See Camping, Welanstadt
Nadia and Michael
It was very overcast, which is great because its cool. (As in temperature, not snow boarder talk for "good"). The route pretty much followed Lake Zurich, so was almost completely flat, (I had only gone up 126ft in the first 31km). First stop of the day was at a Lidls. I bought some apple juice, fruit and meat, and sat in the car park scoffing it. Like a scantily clad tramp with an expensive bicycle, then cracked on.
The views just kept getting better and better, I felt like I was living in a postcard, although in the back of my mind, there was a voice saying, "You've got to go up that soon"...
"Soon" came at the afore mentioned 31km mark, lasted only another 6km, but went up 2412ft... very slowly. There were 9 hairpin bends, so it wasn't straight up thankfully, but I felt it when it was on the inside turn of the hairpins. It took me about an hour to get up, (not sure what the speed was), but I felt really good at the top. Much like my training, I find a level of knackeredness (that IS a word) and stay there, I don't get more tired, I just grind out the miles. So that bodes well for tomorrow. The mountain is 5 times higher, so I'll feel 5 times better...right?
Coming down was obviously even better, not pedalling for nearly half an hour. I did almost crash at one stage. I came through some trees into bright sunshine and the most amazing view of the lake. It LITERALLY took my breathe away, I was so awe struck I forgot to turn and almost went over the barrier and down the side. Luckily there were no cars either...
The campsite is ridiculous. I kept looking round and grinning, the view is stunning. I've attached the new screen saver on my phone and couldn't help send a wee video back to the office to gloat. If anyone is interested Google "See Camping, Welanstadt".
I've just had a BBQ on the beach, with a young couple who asked me to join them. Nadia and Michael. Nadia is staying here as she studies to be a Physiotherapist and Michael is doing his national service in the army. It is usually only 5 months, but he just became a lieutenant and has to do 20...haha, idiot. They were great though, (pic attached), and saved me walking into town to buy my own dinner... (Hence the Day Eight title).
Well, early night as I'm doing a Von Trapp tomorrow and legging it over a mountain.
Tchuss
World's Widest Cycle Path...All along Lake Zurich... Brilliant
See Camping, Welanstadt
Nadia and Michael
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Day Seven... Wish it was Eleven
BECAUSE THEN I'D BE FINISHED...
Good days riding today. My new best things are the French super markets Hyper U and E. Leclerc. I get to cool down in the cooler sections, I spray myself at the perfume sections and of course they sell food and drinks. But now I am in Heidi Land, they've gone. (I did also pass a Spar). I'm not sure what tomorrow holds in the way of provisions. I've no doubt that there will be shops, but probably very expensive tourist ones.
Today's ride was the best so far though, it was definitely the most challenging, with over 5,000ft of ascents altogether, but also the first day in a while that went to plan... 156km and on the road about 10 hours, (including perfume stops). I hit my fastest speed down hill so far, 64kmph and I also noticed that a lot of French cows lie down. At the start of the week I thought it was just because of the rain, but no, they're lazy... Just saying.
On the last bit toward the campsite, I took a wee detour into Zurich, well will I ever get the chance to ride in a major European capital again? Never! And I'll never want to, it was bedlam. Trams, cars, other cyclists, (that know what they're doing) and the maddest series of cycle paths. The go on off the pavement, through tunnels that are full of pedestrians, it was proper mad. Can't remember swearing so much in such a small period of time.
Campsite is ok. Mega expensive, 25 francs for the "cheap" plots away from the lake. He almost spat the word "cheap" out at me, bozz eyed twat* (edit Rob). Then I had to pay 2 francs for a 3 min shower, which turned ice cold when the time ran out...mental. Like they didn't steal enough during the war* (Rob).
Anyway, I'm in my tent, by a noisy road and a train track, under a street light, so I can't see me sleeping much tonight. (Double decker trains too. I just saw one go by, all lit up and couldn't work out what was happening)
Eidelweiss
And before I forget, I got over the border well easy, Steve McQueen is rubbish...
Good days riding today. My new best things are the French super markets Hyper U and E. Leclerc. I get to cool down in the cooler sections, I spray myself at the perfume sections and of course they sell food and drinks. But now I am in Heidi Land, they've gone. (I did also pass a Spar). I'm not sure what tomorrow holds in the way of provisions. I've no doubt that there will be shops, but probably very expensive tourist ones.
Today's ride was the best so far though, it was definitely the most challenging, with over 5,000ft of ascents altogether, but also the first day in a while that went to plan... 156km and on the road about 10 hours, (including perfume stops). I hit my fastest speed down hill so far, 64kmph and I also noticed that a lot of French cows lie down. At the start of the week I thought it was just because of the rain, but no, they're lazy... Just saying.
On the last bit toward the campsite, I took a wee detour into Zurich, well will I ever get the chance to ride in a major European capital again? Never! And I'll never want to, it was bedlam. Trams, cars, other cyclists, (that know what they're doing) and the maddest series of cycle paths. The go on off the pavement, through tunnels that are full of pedestrians, it was proper mad. Can't remember swearing so much in such a small period of time.
Campsite is ok. Mega expensive, 25 francs for the "cheap" plots away from the lake. He almost spat the word "cheap" out at me, bozz eyed twat* (edit Rob). Then I had to pay 2 francs for a 3 min shower, which turned ice cold when the time ran out...mental. Like they didn't steal enough during the war* (Rob).
Anyway, I'm in my tent, by a noisy road and a train track, under a street light, so I can't see me sleeping much tonight. (Double decker trains too. I just saw one go by, all lit up and couldn't work out what was happening)
Eidelweiss
And before I forget, I got over the border well easy, Steve McQueen is rubbish...
Wednesday, 21 September 2011
Day Six... Back in the Mix
Having stopped short yesterday I obviously had a bit of catching up to do today, but Team Ottaway did have a back up plan just in case the conditions stopped that from happening. I was going to head for Vesoul, see what I felt like, what the time was etc and then either stay there or head for the original target of Belfort...
I was up early, (about 1973 according to the carpet walled hotel room) grabbed a couple of croissaints, a cup of tea and hit the road.
Now my lovely Garmin SatNav did have a route of 188km, until I told it I was a car and wanted to use main roads, et voila, (more French), it was 167km, very do-able. So off I set, with the morning traffic, 99% of which was fantastic, just the odd BMW driver living up to the stereotype. The weather was clear absolutely no wind and I was making what seemed like good time, with not much effort as I was heading mostly downhill. Being a main road there were also actual proper shops, that sold stuff, stuff I could eat... Amazing. (Although they seem to shut between 12 and 2, around the time I need them most). So unlike the rest of the trip, I had regular food and water fill ups, this made a massive difference and I made it to Vesoul for around 2.15 and stopped for a rest. Belfort was only another 60km, so I decided to go for it.
The main D roads aren't necessarily better than the rural ones I had been going on so far, but the fact that I had proper pit stops makes them a much better choice and I arrived at the campsite in Belfort at about 6.00pm. The owner's speaks excellent English and after he explained where everything on the site was, I asked him his name. He said, "Patrice", which surprised me. I asked him if he was French, (stick with me here), he said he was and said, "is that because of my accent?"... He spoke English with a German accent. Turns out he spent his childhood in Hanover and learned English in Germany... Brilliant.
I have just spent the evening with a couple from Yorkshire on the last 4 days of their 6 MONTH holiday. I'm not sure they want to go home.
Tomorrow I will be in Switzerland... the land of the Toblerone, and stolen Nazi Gold. (You might want to edit that last bit for POP Rob)
Ce La Vie
I was up early, (about 1973 according to the carpet walled hotel room) grabbed a couple of croissaints, a cup of tea and hit the road.
Now my lovely Garmin SatNav did have a route of 188km, until I told it I was a car and wanted to use main roads, et voila, (more French), it was 167km, very do-able. So off I set, with the morning traffic, 99% of which was fantastic, just the odd BMW driver living up to the stereotype. The weather was clear absolutely no wind and I was making what seemed like good time, with not much effort as I was heading mostly downhill. Being a main road there were also actual proper shops, that sold stuff, stuff I could eat... Amazing. (Although they seem to shut between 12 and 2, around the time I need them most). So unlike the rest of the trip, I had regular food and water fill ups, this made a massive difference and I made it to Vesoul for around 2.15 and stopped for a rest. Belfort was only another 60km, so I decided to go for it.
The main D roads aren't necessarily better than the rural ones I had been going on so far, but the fact that I had proper pit stops makes them a much better choice and I arrived at the campsite in Belfort at about 6.00pm. The owner's speaks excellent English and after he explained where everything on the site was, I asked him his name. He said, "Patrice", which surprised me. I asked him if he was French, (stick with me here), he said he was and said, "is that because of my accent?"... He spoke English with a German accent. Turns out he spent his childhood in Hanover and learned English in Germany... Brilliant.
I have just spent the evening with a couple from Yorkshire on the last 4 days of their 6 MONTH holiday. I'm not sure they want to go home.
Tomorrow I will be in Switzerland... the land of the Toblerone, and stolen Nazi Gold. (You might want to edit that last bit for POP Rob)
Ce La Vie
Monday, 19 September 2011
Day four........ Ready for more
What a difference a day maaaakes... I hope that's a song, because I've been singing it.
Started the day with the decision on whether or not to make a push for my original campsite, or find an alternative. I decided to have a go and if I didn't make it I'd rough camp. I recalculated my route, having detoured, (that's French that is), last night to find a hotel and it came to 196km...eek. I didn't have breakfast at the hotel as I wanted to get away quickly and I'm also struggling to eat first thing, just makes me feel ill, so I nicked a couple of croissants as I left and set off.
The conditions were perfect. It was overcast to keep the sun away, but didn't rain, there was a slight tail wind and as I may have mentioned, the French roads are excellent. I just got my head down and pedalled till I had 150km left, in just under 2 hours, averaging around 14mph and felt really good. So I had a quick break, threw the croissants down my neck and fired on. I stopped once more between then and hitting the halfway point. This always gives me a boost as I then have less to do, than I've done already. So without going into all the details of every stop, (and me almost getting caught having a wee by the road), I did the whole journey in 9 hours, about an hour of which was breaks. That is around an average of 15mph, not Tour de France speeds, but not bad for a cart horse.
Just as I got to the campsite my phone started ringing, I saw that it was an Andover number and answered it... It was Tim Eagles, with some much needed words of wisdom, having gone through similar things last year on his John O' Groats to Lands End cycle. It was very much appreciated and good to talk to someone that knew what I'd gone through yesterday.
The campsite is great, good showers, a laundrette and some decent food, (from a dodgy looking bloke in a van, who only stops smoking to cook). I'm next to a lovely Dutch couple, Matt and Hanika, who gave me a beer and I've been chatting with. So I'm all dry, I'm well fed and I will smell nice when I leave tomorrow...
Allors
Started the day with the decision on whether or not to make a push for my original campsite, or find an alternative. I decided to have a go and if I didn't make it I'd rough camp. I recalculated my route, having detoured, (that's French that is), last night to find a hotel and it came to 196km...eek. I didn't have breakfast at the hotel as I wanted to get away quickly and I'm also struggling to eat first thing, just makes me feel ill, so I nicked a couple of croissants as I left and set off.
The conditions were perfect. It was overcast to keep the sun away, but didn't rain, there was a slight tail wind and as I may have mentioned, the French roads are excellent. I just got my head down and pedalled till I had 150km left, in just under 2 hours, averaging around 14mph and felt really good. So I had a quick break, threw the croissants down my neck and fired on. I stopped once more between then and hitting the halfway point. This always gives me a boost as I then have less to do, than I've done already. So without going into all the details of every stop, (and me almost getting caught having a wee by the road), I did the whole journey in 9 hours, about an hour of which was breaks. That is around an average of 15mph, not Tour de France speeds, but not bad for a cart horse.
Just as I got to the campsite my phone started ringing, I saw that it was an Andover number and answered it... It was Tim Eagles, with some much needed words of wisdom, having gone through similar things last year on his John O' Groats to Lands End cycle. It was very much appreciated and good to talk to someone that knew what I'd gone through yesterday.
The campsite is great, good showers, a laundrette and some decent food, (from a dodgy looking bloke in a van, who only stops smoking to cook). I'm next to a lovely Dutch couple, Matt and Hanika, who gave me a beer and I've been chatting with. So I'm all dry, I'm well fed and I will smell nice when I leave tomorrow...
Allors
Three... Nearly Killed Me
Was woken at 1 am by some stupid woman shouting at her dog and only had broken sleep after that.
7 am, alarm, and absolutely pouring down outside. By the time I had everything packed up and on the bike, I was soaked and hadn't even set off.
I was on the road for 8 and the sun did briefly appear, but from around 9.00 until I stopped just after 6.00 it was torrential rain and headwinds.
I only managed 60 miles (24 short of my target) at an average of less than 10 mph and had to detour to find a hotel. Almost everything is soaked, so will be getting hung up all over the room later...
Also... Nothing is open on Sundays in France. I've only had a pasty since I set off and really struggled to find water, (ironic given the rain) and just now, my mobile just packed in. The back was full of water.
All in all, today has been an absolute nightmare and mentally, it has smashed me right up, but I am impressed that I didn't swear at all while typing that...
7 am, alarm, and absolutely pouring down outside. By the time I had everything packed up and on the bike, I was soaked and hadn't even set off.
I was on the road for 8 and the sun did briefly appear, but from around 9.00 until I stopped just after 6.00 it was torrential rain and headwinds.
I only managed 60 miles (24 short of my target) at an average of less than 10 mph and had to detour to find a hotel. Almost everything is soaked, so will be getting hung up all over the room later...
Also... Nothing is open on Sundays in France. I've only had a pasty since I set off and really struggled to find water, (ironic given the rain) and just now, my mobile just packed in. The back was full of water.
All in all, today has been an absolute nightmare and mentally, it has smashed me right up, but I am impressed that I didn't swear at all while typing that...
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